Ama Dablam Expedition

An expedition to Ama Dablam is more than just a climb. It’s a journey into the heart of the Himalayas. Located in the Khumbu valley of Nepal, only 12 km from the summit of Mount Everest, Ama Dablam expedition demands the attention of every passer-by. Soaring ridgelines and super-steep faces guard the summit from all but the experienced climber. From the summit you are surrounded by a vista of peaks like no other, five of the highest six peaks in the world are clearly visible. From the summit of Ama Dablam 6812 M.

The first ascent (via the SW ridge) of Ama Dablam expedition was not made until the mid-60 by a strong NZ/USA team. The north ridge fell to a talented French team as late as 1979. In recent years many parties have successfully climbed the mountain, with nearly all ascents via the original SW ridge route. Our ascent will be made via the conventional SW ridge route, a technical route that requires 3500m of fixed ropes and four camps above base camp. Ama Dablam climbing can often be completed easily in less than four weeks; however, we do build in an extra week in case of exceptionally bad weather. Ama Dablam climbing on the route involves pure rock climbing on exquisite granite followed by mixed snow and rock climbing. The last section to the summit involves ice climbing followed by a long steep snow slope: often ropes are employed all the way to the summit. The reasons for this are three-fold: safety, speed, and success. Due to the technical nature of the route, ropes will be fixed for most of the climb above camp one. Although we can brush-up your skills at Ama Dablam base camp, a good working knowledge of abseiling and use of mechanical ascenders (jumars) is mandatory: prior experience is required. This might involve a couple of weekend sessions at your local cliff or bridge.
Objective danger on the SW Ridge route is minimal, ice cliffs do not threaten it, the snow slopes are generally stable (with minimal avalanche risk), the rock is of good quality and the mountain is below the reach of jet stream winds. Ama Dablam expedition route is extremely exposed and mistakes with rope work can be unforgiving. For this reason, we have a low client: guide ratio and use experienced guides to keep you safely on track. We also have a strong local climbing Sherpa team to help us on the mountain. The Sherpas are the key to success. They carry and assemble our tents, fix much of the rope and supply each camp with food, stoves and gas cylinders. Without the aid of Sherpas, the chances of success are diminished and all your hard work can be wasted. Often the Sherpas are able to stock camps with sleeping bags as well! This then allows each climber to focus on getting up the hill. Your guide(s) will be involved in the fixing of rope and the smooth running of the expedition but their primary concerns are client safety, service and success. Your guide will be climbing with you at all times, often assisted by a climbing Sherpa. Your guide and Sherpa will ensure your safety and make decisions regarding safety and weather. Your guides perform cooking and other camp duties. This allows you to rest and enjoy your surroundings at each of the camps. You are then left to carry only your personal gear between camps.
We have exceptional food in base camp and on the mountain. Our tents are all high mountains quality and roomy enough to enable you to enjoy a comfortable night’s sleep. If you want the best chance of success– this is it! We provide the highest quality commercial operation available on Ama Dablam.

Trip Highlights:
A scenic Twin otter flight to Lukla (2800m), gateway to the highest peak on earth, Everest.
Climb one of the most technical and beautiful mountains of Nepal, Mt. Ama Dablam.
Climb to the glaciated summit of Ama Dablam 6812 meters above sea level
Our experienced guides are there to ensure your safety and enjoyment
Close view of the Himalayan giants - Mt Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho-Oyu, Kanchenjunga, Chamlang, Baruntse, and many more.
Develop high altitude expedition experience and skills
Meet, trek and climb with the friendly and famous local Sherpa people
Is it right for me?
Mt. Ama Dablam trek and climb is accessible to experienced climbers. Ama Dablam Expedition is one of the best climbing with rock and ice mix. The climbing on the route involves pure rock climbing on exquisite granite followed by mixed snow and rock climbing. The last section to the summit involves ice climbing followed by a long steep snow slope up to the summit. Crampons are used for maximum grip, and harnesses and ropes are used for maximum safety.
Fitness
Previous snow and ice climbing experience are essential. The south-west ridge route requires technical climbing over rock, snow, and ice. Even though the route will mostly be fixed, you should be familiar and confident mixed climbing.
We have developed an itinerary (longer than many other operators) that should enable all members of the team to safely reach the summit and complete the trip in good spirits!
You will need to be able to walk for 4-8 hours a day with a daypack. Depending on your general level of fitness you may benefit from a training regime in the lead up to the trek.
Experience
This trip introduces you to high altitude trekking. A spirit of adventure and a willingness to stretch your horizons are what you'll need. Some experience of hiking will be an advantage.
Seasons:
Autumn season (Sept-Nov) being the best season for climbing peaks, offers excellent weather and tantalizing mountain views, and also the best season for peak climbing. Recommended season for Climbing Ama Dablam.

Summer months (June-September) of the year which coincides with monsoon begins in mid-June and drains in mid-September making travel wet and warm. The mountain views may not be at their best as rain clouds and haze overhang the mountains occasionally obscuring the enchanting views. These times are blessed for the keen botanist as the higher valleys and meadows blossom with flowers and lush vegetation.

Spring season (March-May) is the expedition season and the best time for climbing the high peaks. It is mildly warm at lower elevations but occasional haze mars the beautiful view of mountains. At higher elevations over 4,000 meters, the mountain views are excellent and the temperature is quite moderate even at night. Recommended season for Makalu Expedition.

Winter season (December-February) is noted for cold weather with occasional snowfall at higher elevations. Again, excellent views are common. These months are popular and ideal for trekking for those who are well equipped or who remain at lower elevations below 3,000 meters. Most of the hotel owners will come to the lower altitude cities like Kathmandu and Pokhara.
Although Travel in Nepal can be organized throughout the year, October through May is considered to be the best months for trekking.